Embroidery stitches back into fashion in the UK

Embroidery is experiencing a revival as a younger generation discovers its potential for upcycling old clothes and making bold statements. The exhibition 'Unravel: The power and politics of textiles in art' at London's Barbican showcases how embroidery has become a powerful artistic tool. Artist LJ Roberts' series 'Carry You with me' features textile artworks depicting queer parades and protests, displayed with the backs exposed, highlighting the knots and threads as part of the art. 

A growing desire for sustainable fashion partly fuels this resurgence. The fashion industry significantly negatively impacts the environment and labour practices. With nearly 70 per cent of clothing being synthetic and a large percentage wasted before reaching stores, sustainable fashion advocates promote upcycling and repairing existing garments. Embroidery offers a decorative way to breathe new life into old clothes.

Gen Z is at the forefront of this trend. A TikTok video featuring embroidered moons and stars on a mushroom garnered millions of views. Fashion experts encourage mending visible wear and tear to show a connection with clothes and move away from a wasteful consumer culture. 

For beginners, start with woven fabrics like denim or sweatshirts, transfer the design using water-soluble paper or a heat-erasable pen, and secure it in an embroidery hoop to keep the fabric taut. 

Basic stitches like chain stitch or back stitch are good for outlines, while satin stitch works well for small areas. 

Many artists take inspiration from contemporary embroiderers like Richard Saja, who uses embroidery to transform traditional toile patterns, or Tessa Perlow, whose nature-inspired work adorns upcycled materials. Both the artists are US-based.