History to digital spaces: The eternal charm of Anarkali

No wonder the word Anarkali instantly evokes the graceful image of Madhubala from Mughal-e-Azam cinema, twirling under the shimmering chandeliers of the Mughal court, singing and dancing for Prince Salim. The cinema didn't just immortalise a love story—it revived a fashion legacy that still enchants us centuries later.

Apart from other adaptations from the Mughal era, such as architecture, design, food, or footwear, the flared, regal silhouette known as the Anarkali created its own niche. In the 21st century, it continues to capture hearts, proving that some styles never fade; they find new admirers in every generation.

The history behind the flare

The Anarkali suit draws its name from one of the most romantic (and tragic) legends of the Mughal era—the courtesan Anarkali, whose beauty and charm allegedly won the heart of Prince Salim, the future Emperor Jahangir.

Their forbidden love story, as retold through folklore and film, has become an integral part of South Asia's cultural imagination.

However, there is no concrete evidence in official Mughal records, such as the Ain-i-Akbari or Tuzuk-i-Jahangiri (Jahangir's memoirs), that an Anarkali ever existed. Historians believe the story may have been invented later, possibly in the 17th or 18th century.

However, one mysterious clue exists in Lahore, in the form of a mausoleum known as the Tomb of Anarkali. The tomb bears a Persian inscription that translates roughly to "Ah! Could I have seen the face of my beloved once more, I would have thanked God until the day of resurrection." The inscription is attributed to Jahangir, leading some to believe the story, though it could also refer to another of his concubines or a noblewoman.

Fashion historians trace the Anarkali's origins to the Mughal royal courts of the 16th century, where women adorned themselves in long, flowing frocks made of rich silks and velvets.

The dress's unique structure, a fitted bodice flowing into a voluminous, frock-like skirt, symbolised grace and femininity. Often paired with churidar bottoms and a delicate dupatta, the Anarkali became the very definition of regal beauty.

Back then, these garments were the symbols of status. Skilled artisans embroidered them with zari, resham, sequins, and cutdana, transforming each piece into wearable art. The use of deep jewel tones, such as emerald green, ruby red, and royal blue, reflected the luxury of the Mughal courts. Anarkalis weren't merely stitched; they were crafted, often by hand, over weeks or even months.

How Anarkali reached Bengal

As Mughal influence spread across the Indian subcontinent, so did its culture and couture. Bengal, renowned for its artistic richness and fine textiles, adopted the Mughal style with its own distinctive local flair.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, Dhaka, then a thriving Mughal city, became a hub for fine muslin and silk materials that naturally lent themselves to the flowing silhouettes of the Anarkali.

While the original Mughal versions were heavy and ornate, Bengal artisans adapted them to suit the humid climate and local tastes.

Lighter fabrics, such as cotton muslin, replaced velvet and brocade, making the attire more wearable for everyday life.

Over time, the Anarkali became not just a royal outfit but a staple of Bengali festive wear, often seen during Eid, weddings, and cultural events.

The design kept evolving. By the late 20th century, Bangladeshi boutiques and local tailors began incorporating regional handwork—such as nakshi kantha embroidery and jamdani motifs—into Anarkali silhouettes. This fusion of Mughal grandeur and Bengali artistry created a version of Anarkali that was uniquely our own.

How the TikTok takeover

Fast forward to the 2020s, and the Anarkali is having yet another moment—this time, on social media. Platforms like TikTok and Instagram have given the dress a digital rebirth.

Scroll through your feed, and you'll spot Dhaka's young content creators twirling in pastel Anarkalis, showing off slow-motion spins to trending romantic songs.

What's fascinating is how this trend blends nostalgia with modernity. Gen Z creators are now reinterpreting the same outfit once worn by royal courtesans and Bollywood actresses—some pairing their Anarkalis with sneakers, others styling them with statement jewellery and bold makeup. The look feels both traditional and trendy, rooted in the past yet rebellious.

In Dhaka's TikTok scene, especially during Eid or wedding season, the Anarkali has become the go-to outfit for short fashion reels. The flared silhouette naturally enhances movement, making every twirl video-worthy. Even fashion influencers have begun celebrating it as "the Dhaka girl's answer to the saree. "I love clicking pictures wearing an Anarkali. Because you can do a twirl, which looks beautiful. I once got more than 50 thousand views in one of my reels," says a Dhaka-based promising TikToker.

Comfort behind the glamour

Beyond its aesthetic charm, one of the primary reasons the Anarkali has endured is its comfort. Unlike tight-fitted blouses or heavy lehengas, the Anarkali flows freely, flattering all body types. Its design gives room to move, breathe, and dance—whether you're at a wedding, mehendi or filming your 30-second TikTok video.

Many women say wearing one feels like stepping into another era without sacrificing comfort.

There is also a psychological comfort. The Anarkali carries with it a sense of nostalgia, a link to heritage. When a Dhaka girl puts on an Anarkali, she isn't just wearing a dress—she's wearing centuries of artistry, romance, and resilience.

Where to find them—and for how much

In Dhaka, you don't need royal connections to look regal. Anarkali suits are widely available, ranging from affordable ready-made versions to custom couture pieces.

If you're on a budget, head to New Market, Gausia, or Chandni Chowk—where you can find elegant Anarkalis. "We have varieties of Anarkali starting from 1,200 taka, also sell which are more than 5,000 taka, depending on the works", says a seller from New Market.

Boutique stores in Banani, Dhanmondi, and Uttara offer more sophisticated options, often priced from 6,000 to 15,000 taka.

For a completely personalised experience, many fashion lovers now prefer buying their own fabric from Islampur Market—and taking it to their trusted tailor. With the right design and fit, a custom-made Anarkali can cost anywhere between 3,000 and 10,000 taka. Online platforms have also made the shopping experience easier, delivering trendy Anarkalis right to your doorstep. "Our business relies on Anarkali. We sell those dresses at a comparatively lower rate," says Salman Rahman, who owns an online shop.

From Mughal palaces to TikTok reels, the Anarkali has travelled through time, carrying with it stories of love, rebellion, and beauty. It has dressed queens, courtesans, and now influencers—all with the same purpose: to make the wearer feel extraordinary.

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