Rediscovering Bagerhat's forgotten grandeur

The Bagerhat is one of the oldest regions of Bengal, established during the medieval period 15th century by Ulugh Khan Jahan. From the very beginning, it was in the hands of Muslims for which provides an aura of ancient Islamic monuments. Interestingly, Bagerhat was formerly called 'Khalifatbad', surrounded by rivers and the Bay of Bengal.

The historic city of Bagerhat, located in the south-western part of Bangladesh at the confluence of the Ganges and Brahmaputra rivers, is a remarkable example of medieval architecture. The city spreads across about 50 square km along the Bhairab River.

Known from history that the city housed nearly 360 structures, including mosques, mausoleums, bridges, tanks, and public buildings, constructed mainly from baked bricks, marking the early development of Muslim architecture in Bengal. The city's unique features include its dense concentration of religious monuments, advanced water management systems, and organised urban planning.

After Khan Jahan died in 1459, much of the city was overtaken by the jungle. More than 50 significant monuments have been documented, including the mosques of Singar, Bibi Begni, Chunakhola, Reza Khoda, Zindavir, and Ranvijoypur.

Now a UNESCO World heritage Site, Bagerhat stands as a lasting testimony to Bengal's medieval Islamic architecture and urban vision.

The mosques are very near to one another.

Besides, the locations are easy to move as well. As such, the Shait Gambuj Mosque is located on the main highway. This magnificent and vast mosque, adorned with exquisite carvings and over five centuries old, was built by Hazrat Khanjahan (R.A.) and is located about one and a half kilometres west of his shrine. In terms of architectural technique and the floral decorations on its red terracotta, this mosque holds a special place in medieval architecture. Although it is known as the Shait Gambuj Mosque, it actually has a total of 74 domes.

According to legend, Hazrat Khanjahan (R.A.) brought all the stones for the construction of the Sixty-Dome Mosque by floating them on water using his miraculous powers from as far away as Chittagong, or, according to another opinion, from Rajmahal in Orissa, India.

The structure's design shows a significant influence of Tughlaq architecture. UNESCO has included this mosque in the World heritage List.

The Noy Gumbad Masjid is located on the western bank of the Thakur Dighi or Khanjeli Dighi. Inside the mosque, two rows of stone pillars divide the space into a total of nine square sections. The nine domes of the mosque's roof are built on top of each of these sections.

The Ek Gumbad Masjid is another modest yet significant monument of Bagerhat. It is topped by a single dome resting upon thick brick walls. It is smaller than the other grand mosques of the city; however, the simplicity, strong proportions, and spiritual atmosphere highlight the diversity of architectural styles in Bagerhat. Such single-domed mosques were often used for local congregational prayers. It reflects the balance between community needs and monumental ambition in Khan Jahan's city.

The Singair Masjid stands at the southeastern corner of the Shait Gambuj Mosque complex. It features unplastered reddish walls like the other ones. The Singair Mosque represents the architectural language of the larger Shait Gambuj Mosque, giving us a glimpse of how uniformity and variety coexisted in Khan Jahan's urban design.

Shrouded in mystery, the Bibi Begni Masjid is said to have been built either for Khan Jahan Ali's wife or for one of his concubines, according to local traditions. The mosque stands as a reminder of the personal stories woven into Bagerhat's monumental landscape. Its walls, like others in the city, are constructed with sturdy bricks, and its design blends spiritual function with delicate beauty.

The Chunakhola Masjid is another single-domed structure, constructed on a raised platform. Like many others in Bagerhat, its style follows the traditional Khan Jahan line, thick brick walls, curved cornices, arched entrances, and a central mihrab. Though not as elaborate as the Shait Gambuj or Noy Gumbad, it is an essential example of the uniform architectural identity of Khalifatabad.

The Ayodhya Math is located in the village of Kodla on the eastern bank of the ancient Bhairab River. The polished red bricks are of a very high quality.

The math (a type of monastery or temple) stands at a height of about 18.28 meters above the ground. A beautiful feature of this math is its external ornamentation. It is believed that the architectural style shows the influence of the temple construction methods seen in the Orissa region of India up until the 16th century.

It has not been precisely determined who built this math or when. However, an inscription is carved on the math which reads, Śarmanā.

Uddiśya tārakaṃ(brahma) [praśā] dōhāṃ binirmiti meaning Built in dedication to the divine liberator (Brahma), for the attainment of his grace. From the deciphered parts of this worn-out line, it is inferred that this math was likely built by a Brahmin (identified by "Śarmanā") for the purpose of attaining the divine abode of Taraka (Brahma).

Alongside this, there is a widespread belief that the math was built on someone's cremation site.

According to local lore, the math was constructed by Raja Pratapaditya as a memorial for his court scholar, 'Abilamba Saraswati.' This medieval temple, built with terracotta ornamentation, is a brilliant example of architectural art.

The Hazrat Khan Jahan Ali Mazar is one of the most historically and spiritually significant landmarks in Bagerhat. It was built in the 15th century.

This shrine stands as a symbol of faith, architectural beauty, and cultural heritage. It is the resting place of Khan Jahan Ali, a sufi, preacher, and administrator who played a key role in spreading Islam in the region and establishing Bagerhat as a thriving urban centre.

The shrine has a pond adjacent to it, which is the last open freshwater habitat that has been home to generations of crocodiles for over six hundred years. To protect its fresh drinking water from being contaminated, a pair of freshwater crocodiles was released into the pond. Since then, generation after generation of these freshwater crocodiles has lived in the sacred pond of the Khan Jahan Ali shrine.

Today, visitors walk through the ruins, mosques, and shrines, imagining a bustling city that once stood in the midst of rivers and forests. Bagerhat remains a place where history whispers through every brick, every dome, and every tank of water. It is a testimony to the enduring spirit of Bengal's medieval culture and a treasure for the entire world to cherish.

nawmiafra25@gmail.com