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15 days ago

Exploring Bangladesh's 'overlooked' historical sites

Lalkuthi, Northbrook Hall
Lalkuthi, Northbrook Hall Photo : Md Imran

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It is not necessarily the case that Bangladesh's history will fade away in dramatic failure. More often, it fades quietly. The urban and rural areas are scattered with historical sites left standing but not maintained. These sites characterise the stratification of the country's history: colonialism, the tragedy of war, people's migration, and the restructuring of cities.

These sites are mainly not regulated by any institutions. They are not in the limelight, which means that, even though such sites carry historical significance, they are not driven by the masses.

TSC Greek Cemetery

One of the most hidden historical spaces in the city is the Greek Cemetery, located on the busy campus of the University of Dhaka beside the Teacher-Student Centre (TSC).

It was constructed in the 19th century and contains the graves of Greek traders and merchants who once played a role in Dhaka's business life during colonial rule.

The cemetery has become very inaccessible and deserted. But it exists, physically. Most students graduate without having a clue what is contained within the walls of TSC. The cemetery, according to conservationists, is also representative of the multicultural history of Dhaka that is being wiped out bit by bit.

Northbrook Hall, Old Dhaka. Photo- Md Imran

Lalkuti: A colonial house losing its identity

Lalkuti is a red-brick colonial building in Old Dhaka whose history remains a controversial topic among historians. It is presumed that the architectural structure was built during the British reign, given its administrative and residential functions.

The gate of Northbrook Hall after renovation. Photo- Md Imran

This is neglect, intrusion, and loss of records of Lalkuti now. Lacking acknowledgement and safeguards, the specialists warn that Lakuti will eventually be permanently altered and may lose its historical purpose, or even be destroyed. However, the building is under renovation. People started revisiting the place to hang out and take photos.

Wari Christian cemetery

The other 'less-focused' site in the capital is the Christian cemetery in Wari, built in the Mughal period. It houses the graves of the Armenian, Portuguese, and British Christians who were residing in Dhaka some centuries ago.

400-year-old Christian Cemetery at Narinda. Photo- Md Imran 

The cemetery is formally named but poorly accessible. There are worn stones, erased carvings, plants growing over them, all signs of a lack of serious attention.

Indrakpur fort: A visit-worthy Mughal defence

To the locals of Munshiganj, Indrakpur Fort, or Indrakur Kella, is a fort built in the 17th century under Mughal rule. The purpose of constructing the fort was to protect river routes against pirates, especially the Mogs.

Idrakpur fort. Md Imran

Today, the fort is in a state of decay across vast regions. It has been vegetated, and its bottom is at risk of erosion. Although it is a preserved monument, it has not been preserved thoughtfully. The local people's panic is that further neglect will lead to irreparable damage.

War cemetery in Cumilla

One of the least visited but most historic places has been the Cumilla War Cemetery. The Commonwealth War Graves Commission maintains it and contains the graves of soldiers who died in the Second World War, including British, Indian, African, and Allied soldiers.

Despite the cemetery's international importance, society pays little attention to it. It is also not covered much in the national historical accounts, as it is well off the major tourist routes. Many people in Bangladesh are unaware of its existence; hence, the question of how this war memory is remembered and taught.

Shamshernagar abandoned airport

The landscape of Moulvibazar, Shamshernagar, is marked by an empty airport. The airstrip was built during World War II and was previously used by the Allied forces as a military staging area. This was the situation after the war, which led to the airport ceasing to be a strategic hub.

The structures and the runway are not in use now and are gradually deteriorating.

Periodically, they suggest redevelopment, but no critical assessment of heritage is carried out. To historians, the place can be a good reminder of how the world's history of war is remembered through Bangladesh's involvement.

Why are these places 'less focused'

A single factor rarely causes the razing of historical sites in Bangladesh. One of the factors is insufficient funding, pressure on public awareness, and development. The degradation has also been augmented by urban growth. Old buildings are viewed as liabilities rather than assets, particularly in congested cities such as Dhaka.

Preservation beyond protection

Despite the presence of laws purported to protect heritage sites, they are not consistently implemented in Bangladesh. The Department of Archaeology manages hundreds of monuments with scarce resources. Conservation experts argue that it is not sufficient to ensure its protection by law.

They emphasise the importance of paperwork, public availability, and reuse. Conservation and use could be ensured by transforming these sites into museums, cultural spaces, or educational facilities.

The deserted historical places are not empty. They carry the memory of people who went, of struggles that ended, and of periods of silence. The lack of such places will not destroy the interpretation of history; it will simply cease to exist. Most of these places would disappear in a few generations, not through demolition, but through decay, in the absence of efforts.

It is about maintaining the physical contact with the stratified history of the country. The destruction of these structures means there will be no construction available to replace the damaged ones.

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