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The American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) and the Fair Labor Association (FLA) have jointly called for tangible progress on key labour rights issues in Bangladesh, amid ongoing negotiations with the United States regarding President Donald Trump's proposed tariffs.
In a letter dated May 20 to Chief Adviser Dr Mohammad Yunus, the two industry groups called for immediate release of those still in custody following the Fall 2023 minimum wage protests, and the withdrawal of all criminal charges brought against them.
They also renewed their longstanding call for a swift, transparent and regular annual minimum wage review mechanism for the garment, footwear and travel goods industries.
The letter also emphasised the urgent need to conclude tripartite negotiations on amending the Bangladesh Labour Act in order to streamline with international labour standards to promote harmonious industrial relation and prevent future unrest.
In the letter, AAFA President and CEO Steve Lamar, and FLA President and CEO FLA Jeff Vockrodt said they want to continue to work closely with the Chief Adviser to ensure that both the protection of workers' rights and growth of the industry are paramount.
"This is even more important in the midst of the ongoing negotiations with the United States over President Trump's proposed tariffs, which could have a major adverse impact on Bangladesh," reads the letter.
It also added that resolving these issues will help move negotiations towards successful conclusion on President Trump's tariffs.
"Regrettably, the issues we urged you to address in our September 17, 2024 letter, and during the November 2024 and January 2025 brand delegation visits to Bangladesh, remain," it said.
"However, the time for discussion has passed," they said in the letter, adding that they need to see real progress, as soon as possible, on resolving the issues.
They also urged the interim government to end the threat of arrest for thousands more workers related to the 2023 minimum wage protests by immediately cancelling the "First Information Reports" related to those workers.
They also called on the government to drop and resolve criminal charges brought against labour organisers, such as Babul Akhter, the General Secretary of Bangladesh Garments and Industrial Workers Federation, and Jewel Miya, a labour organiser with the Bangladesh Independent Garment Workers Union Federation, who were both arrested in 2023 for advocating for higher wages.
Regarding annual minimum wage review, they said such mechanism that includes all stakeholders versus the current five-year review enables the government to better respond to current economic circumstances without imposing sudden, huge burdens on the industry or workers.
The implementation of a regular and transparent wage review mechanism would promote both the short- and long-term health and stability of the Bangladeshi garment, footwear, and travel goods industry, they added.
They also urged the government to consider giving guidance to employers to pay missed wages to workers for the four days missed during the declared holiday.
To promote harmonious industrial relations and prevent future unrest, they requested the government to quickly conclude tripartite discussions on the Bangladesh Labour Act and align the law with international labour standards.
"Those reforms should simplify the creation and registration of independent trade unions, including a significant reduction of the registration threshold," they said and suggested increasing penalties for unfair labour practices and extending full labour rights to workers in the Export Processing Zones (EPZ).
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