Over 40pc global fashion brands increasing pollution: Survey

Researchers in a survey have called on fashion brands to publish detailed climate plans, support suppliers with decarbonisation, publicly disclose emissions data, and advocate for stronger climate policies.

The call came after a new fashion scorecard found that over 40 per cent of the surveyed brands are backsliding as they are increasing pollution, while only 7.0 per cent have aligned with the Paris Agreement benchmarks.

The 2025 Fossil Free Fashion Scorecard by Stand.earth released on June 3 named H&M the "best performer" as it earned the first-ever "B+" for climate commitments and transparency, its efforts to support and finance supplier decarbonisation, particularly in Bangladesh, as well as its effective climate advocacy initiatives.

Stand.earth, an environmental advocacy group, analysed 42 apparel and footwear brands based on their growth and global prominence using publicly available data on climate change, renewable energy, supplier engagement, circular materials, and green shipping to determine the scores.

Fashion remains one of the world's most polluting industries, responsible for at least 4.0 per cent of all climate pollution, while emissions for the sector are forecast to increase, according to it.

The bulk of the industry's emissions happen in the supply chain, and the industry sources from some of the world's most climate-vulnerable countries, such as Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, Vietnam, and Cambodia.

With these countries predominantly relying on fossil fuels - and the industry notorious for thin margins - manufacturers have voiced the need for support from brands to support their decarbonisation efforts.

According to the scorecard, 14 or 33 per cent of the 42 brands reported sustained pollution reduction of more than 10 per cent against their baseline, with only three (7.0 per cent) companies having done so in line with a 1.5°C pathway, the foundational benchmark of the Paris Agreement.

At the same time, 17 (40 per cent) of the 42 brands increased their carbon footprint compared to their baseline, outpacing those on a 1.5°C path by a nearly 6-to-1 margin.

E-retailer Shein earned an "F" grade, which, according to the report, is the most concerning finding, and it increased its absolute emissions by over 170 per cent in just two years - now emitting nearly as much pollution every year as the entire country of Lebanon.

In particular, the report's researchers note that Shein's fast-to-market strategy is "alarming" primarily because it involves sending individual packages directly to consumers by air freight instead of surface or marine transportation.

Other brands earning an "F" grade include Target, PVH, Next, Boohoo, Aritzia, Columbia, and Under Armour, which were called out for failing to disclose meaningful climate or energy targets and also report any significant support for decarbonisation initiatives in their supply chains.

While limited, there are signs of progress, with H&M and Eileen Fisher leading the pack, scoring "B+" and "B-", respectively.

The report praised Eileen Fisher for its circularity efforts, particularly its work phasing out fossil-fuel fibres and scaling up recycled materials, which, the researchers note, is "impressive for a small brand".

It also commended sportswear company Lululemon, which set a 50 per cent renewable electricity target for its supply chain by 2030, noting that the brand has significantly improved since the last report was published in 2023.

A total of 95 per cent of brands now offer resale or repair programmes, signalling that brands are seeing the economic opportunity in circular business models, the report said.

However, the researchers note that while these efforts are positive, the bulk of impacts happen upstream in the supply chain, which remains unaddressed.

"The 2025 Fossil Free Fashion Scorecard makes it clear that the fashion industry is still failing to take the decisive action needed to align with global climate goals," said Todd Paglia, executive director of Stand.earth.

"While we see some brands making progress, most others are missing the moment or shirking their responsibility entirely, which is alarming," he said.

Moreover, many brands are failing to support their suppliers in transitioning to clean energy, meaning the financial burden of the transition disproportionately impacts manufacturers, he added.

The industry has the resources to act but instead, he said, they see companies making empty promises while continuing business as usual.

Brands leading the way, like H&M, are proving that meaningful action is possible, but they must accelerate their efforts and push their competitors to follow suit, he noted.

"Bigger brands in particular can use their muscle to advocate for stronger climate policies to ensure a level playing field and longevity for the entire industry," added Mr Paglia.

Rachel Kitchin, senior corporate climate campaigner at Stand.earth, said, "The fashion industry is at a crossroads, and brands must decide whether they will lead the transition to a fossil-free future, or continue to fuel the climate crisis."

Policymakers, industry groups, and citizens have a role to play in holding brands accountable and pushing for change, she said, stressing the need to see more brands making ambitious commitments and following through with real action as the stakes are too high for anything less.

Munni_fe@yahoo.com