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The challenge of managing textile waste has long been a pressing issue, both from an environmental and socio-economic perspective. In Bangladesh, the handling of textile waste, locally known as jhut, remains largely informal and disorganised. This unregulated approach has created a hydra-headed problem over the years, posing significant environmental, social, and economic risks. The informal nature of the jhut trade not only hampers sustainable practices but has also led to frequent conflict and clashes between stakeholders, disrupting the country's Ready-Made Garments (RMG) sector. The economic and political nexus has its internecine feuds, and despite efforts to remove tension, there has not been any sign of relief, so far. Clearly, it is the absence of formalising the business that mainly accounts for the conflict and wrangling.
A recent discussion meeting in Dhaka brought renewed attention to the importance of formalising Bangladesh's textile waste management system. Organised under the "SWITCH to Circular Economy Value Chains" project-co-funded by the European Union (EU) and the Finnish government and led by the United Nations Industrial Development Organisation (UNIDO)-the event emphasised aligning the country's waste management practices with the EU's sustainable product regulations.
Experts at the event highlighted that transitioning to a circular economy is not just about environmental responsibility but also an opportunity to create millions of jobs in recycling and reducing the country's dependence on raw material imports. A formal policy framework for jhut management could address the unrest in the RMG sector by fostering better coordination among stakeholders, manufacturers, waste management companies, and global brands.
As the second-largest garment exporter globally, Bangladesh faces an enormous challenge in managing its growing textile waste. Much of this waste is either incinerated or dumped in landfills, causing significant environmental harm. These practices result in wasted resources, pollution, and a missed opportunity to harness the economic value of textile waste through recycling and upcycling. Experts argue that a comprehensive recycling system could reduce environmental degradation while contributing to the country's economy. Turning waste into reusable materials can drive sustainability and promote a circular approach within the textile industry.
The circular approach offers a promising solution by closing the loops in the production process. This involves transforming waste into resources for future manufacturing. With proper infrastructure for waste collection, sorting, and advanced recycling technologies, Bangladesh can lower its environmental footprint and foster growth in green industries. Investing in recycling technology and infrastructure could also position Bangladesh as a leader in textile recycling. Collaboration among the government, manufacturers, and waste processors is essential to create a robust ecosystem for sustainable production and waste management.
Speaking at the event, Deputy Head of the EU Delegation to Bangladesh, Bernd Spanier, underscored the urgency of transitioning to circular production. He noted that the next five years are critical for Bangladesh's garment industry to meet the EU's emerging standards under its Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. This framework aims to ensure that textiles entering the EU market by 2030 are made from recycled fibers, free of hazardous substances, and produced in an environmentally and socially responsible manner. He also highlighted gaps in Bangladesh's current policies, such as the National Environmental Policy, Solid Waste Management Rules, and the Bangladesh Labour Act, which are not fully aligned with international standards for circular textile manufacturing. Without supportive policies, countries like Vietnam and Indonesia are emerging as preferred destinations for recycling industries.
Formalising the textile waste management system could unlock substantial economic benefits. According to experts, this transition could help Bangladesh remain competitive in the global garment market, especially as international buyers increasingly prioritise sustainability. Furthermore, recycling and waste management offer an avenue for economic diversification. By investing in circularity, the country can develop a thriving recycling industry that generates value from waste while mitigating its environmental impact.
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/ EDITORIAL
Efficient management and recycling of textile waste
Wasi Ahmed | November 27, 2024 00:00:00
The challenge of managing textile waste has long been a pressing issue, both from an environmental and socio-economic perspective. In Bangladesh, the handling of textile waste, locally known as jhut, remains largely informal and disorganised. This unregulated approach has created a hydra-headed problem over the years, posing significant environmental, social, and economic risks. The informal nature of the jhut trade not only hampers sustainable practices but has also led to frequent conflict and clashes between stakeholders, disrupting the country's Ready-Made Garments (RMG) sector. The economic and political nexus has its internecine feuds, and despite efforts to remove tension, there has not been any sign of relief, so far. Clearly, it is the absence of formalising the business that mainly accounts for the conflict and wrangling.
A recent discussion meeting in Dhaka brought renewed attention to the importance of formalising Bangladesh's textile waste management system. Organised under the "SWITCH to Circular Economy Value Chains" project-co-funded by the European Union (EU) and the Finnish government and led by the United Nations Industrial Development Organisation (UNIDO)-the event emphasised aligning the country's waste management practices with the EU's sustainable product regulations.
Experts at the event highlighted that transitioning to a circular economy is not just about environmental responsibility but also an opportunity to create millions of jobs in recycling and reducing the country's dependence on raw material imports. A formal policy framework for jhut management could address the unrest in the RMG sector by fostering better coordination among stakeholders, manufacturers, waste management companies, and global brands.
As the second-largest garment exporter globally, Bangladesh faces an enormous challenge in managing its growing textile waste. Much of this waste is either incinerated or dumped in landfills, causing significant environmental harm. These practices result in wasted resources, pollution, and a missed opportunity to harness the economic value of textile waste through recycling and upcycling. Experts argue that a comprehensive recycling system could reduce environmental degradation while contributing to the country's economy. Turning waste into reusable materials can drive sustainability and promote a circular approach within the textile industry.
The circular approach offers a promising solution by closing the loops in the production process. This involves transforming waste into resources for future manufacturing. With proper infrastructure for waste collection, sorting, and advanced recycling technologies, Bangladesh can lower its environmental footprint and foster growth in green industries. Investing in recycling technology and infrastructure could also position Bangladesh as a leader in textile recycling. Collaboration among the government, manufacturers, and waste processors is essential to create a robust ecosystem for sustainable production and waste management.
Speaking at the event, Deputy Head of the EU Delegation to Bangladesh, Bernd Spanier, underscored the urgency of transitioning to circular production. He noted that the next five years are critical for Bangladesh's garment industry to meet the EU's emerging standards under its Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. This framework aims to ensure that textiles entering the EU market by 2030 are made from recycled fibers, free of hazardous substances, and produced in an environmentally and socially responsible manner. He also highlighted gaps in Bangladesh's current policies, such as the National Environmental Policy, Solid Waste Management Rules, and the Bangladesh Labour Act, which are not fully aligned with international standards for circular textile manufacturing. Without supportive policies, countries like Vietnam and Indonesia are emerging as preferred destinations for recycling industries.
Formalising the textile waste management system could unlock substantial economic benefits. According to experts, this transition could help Bangladesh remain competitive in the global garment market, especially as international buyers increasingly prioritise sustainability. Furthermore, recycling and waste management offer an avenue for economic diversification. By investing in circularity, the country can develop a thriving recycling industry that generates value from waste while mitigating its environmental impact.
The transition from a linear to a circular production model is not without challenges. It requires significant investments in infrastructure, technology, and policy reform. However, the benefits far outweigh the costs. Adopting circular practices could enhance Bangladesh's global reputation as a responsible garment producer and secure its position in international markets that increasingly demand sustainable practices.
The government and industry leaders must work together to implement a structured waste management framework. This includes incentivising manufacturers to adopt recycling technologies, establishing formal waste collection systems, and creating policies that align with global standards. Such measures would not only ensure environmental sustainability but also reduce social unrest in the RMG sector caused by the informal handling of jhut.
The global shift in favour of sustainability and circularity is accelerating, and Bangladesh cannot afford to lag behind. With the EU introducing significant regulatory initiatives in this region, the next five years are crucial for the country to adapt to these changes. To achieve this, all stakeholders-including the government, industry leaders, and international partners-must collaborate to establish a comprehensive and formal textile waste management system. This shift not only addresses environmental concerns but also fosters a more sustainable and resilient garment industry.
The integration of recycling and circularity into Bangladesh's textile sector is no longer optional; it ought to be mandatory in order to secure a sustainable future for the industry and the nation.