Nehari business: How a morning dish evolves into an evening hit?

Nehari, traditionally cooked overnight and served early in the morning, was once the choice of labourers and workers who needed a heavy, protein-rich meal to start their day in the Mughal era. The workers had to work in the construction section mostly, so they required heavy meals to start the day. But in the alleys of Dhaka, that time-honoured schedule is slowly being rewritten. The dish, with its thick gravy and slow-cooked meat, has become an evening favourite, enjoyed at casual meetups, family dinners, and during late-night food cravings.

From roadside carts in Lalbagh to long-established restaurants in Wari, Nehari has become a star of the city's evening food scene and a reliable moneymaker for its sellers.

At first glance, it might surprise many that a dish rooted so deeply in early morning tradition is being devoured at dusk. But walk down the streets of Old Dhaka after Maghrib prayers, and you will find the picture is changing fast. The frying parathas, the clinking of metal pots, and the steady stream of customers queueing up for a bowl of steaming Nehari.

This shift didn't happen overnight. The roots of Nehari lie deep in the history of the Indian subcontinent. Nehari was first introduced as a breakfast for royal soldiers and noblemen in the Mughal era.

The claim that Nihari is a derivation from the study of Hikmat (Eastern herbal medicine) comes as no surprise, not only was its consumption preventive against sinus, the common cold and the onset of fever in the winters of Delhi and Lucknow, it also gained popularity as a food that kept one warm during dropping temperatures.

The extravagant Nihari was initially served as breakfast to the rich Muslim Nawabs of pre-partition India. Still, the high classes soon realised that this rich thick curry, laden with tender chunks of veal and beef, slow cooked to perfection in the bone stock of shank meat had to be worked off once eaten, and who better to work it off but the labourers who were busy building India; one haweli, mahal, sadrak and railway station at a time. The word "Nehari" itself originates from the Arabic word "Nahar," meaning "morning," which indicates its original purpose.

From the Mughal kitchens, the dish made its way into public eateries, particularly in North Indian cities such as Delhi and Lucknow. Over time, as borders shifted and people migrated, the recipe travelled across regions and found a new home in the Bengal Delta.

Over the generations, it adjusted itself to local tastes, sometimes with more ginger and coriander.

In Dhaka, Nehari mainly remained within the boundaries of home kitchens, especially during special occasions like Eid-ul-Adha. Ramisha Sultana, a resident of Malibagh, shares her nostalgic connection. "My mother and grandmother used to cook Nehari during Qurbani. We'd all gather around, cousins, uncles, everyone - and it was a family event. Back then, you wouldn't find Nehari on restaurant menus."

But times have changed. Today, the dish is not only available in restaurants, it's thriving in them.

Places in Narinda, Wari, Laxmi Bazar, Mirpur, and Malibagh are drawing young crowds each evening. For many, it's not just about the food; it's about the experience.

Mohammad Nur, a self-proclaimed Nehari enthusiast, says, "You can't finish Nehari in ten minutes. Like it's slow cooking, you have to eat it slowly. That gives you time to talk, laugh, and bond. It's perfect for evenings."

And the restaurants have taken note. A renowned seller in Wari estimates that he sells around 150 to 200 bowls of Nehari every evening. "Each bowl gives me around 150 to 200 taka profit," he says with a smile. "Do the math, and you'll see why people are turning to this business."

Indeed, the business potential is no small deal. At a modest price of 150 to 450 taka per plate, depending on portion and place. Restaurants and food carts alike are seeing steady profits.

Mohammad Ali, who runs a food cart in Lalbagh, initially tried his luck with fast food and juice items. While those gave him little success, Nehari changed his fortunes. "Alhumdulillah, people love it," he says. "The warmth, the ginger, the coriander - I can barely keep up with the demand some evenings."

His monthly earnings? Somewhere between 80,000 and 1 lakh taka. He hopes to start dreaming of opening his restaurant soon.

Part of the appeal lies in the dish's versatility. While it still holds its deep-rooted image of being a meat-heavy morning meal for the working class, its recent transformation into a shared evening delicacy has broadened its audience. Children, college students, and elderly folks, Nehari is now for everyone.

But this growing popularity brings its own set of challenges. Ramisha points out a crucial detail often overlooked, "Good Nehari takes time. Many restaurants rush to meet demand. That changes the taste. At home, the process was slow and meticulous. That's what made it special."

In an era of instant meals and fast service, this slow dish demands a rare ingredient, 'patience.' And not all vendors are willing or able to give it.

Still, the enthusiasm is unmistakable.

Even as the taste may vary from shop to shop, the love for Nehari is spreading far beyond its original base. Social media plays a role too, food bloggers and vloggers often feature evening Nehari gatherings. Newcomers line up to taste the dish that their friends or favourite YouTubers talked about.

What's more telling is how the dish has moved beyond class lines. Once considered a working man's breakfast, the Nehari now shares space with biryani, kebabs, and grilled meats on high-end menus.

College students from nearby hostels, office workers on their way back from work, or families stepping out for a treat - everyone's embracing it. Its slow-cooked charm now caters to fast-moving lives.

As Dhaka continues to expand and evolve, so too does its food culture. Amidst fancy cafes and fast-food chains, Nehari stands as an unassuming dish that reminds people of history, family, and flavour.

From the royal kitchens of the Mughals to food carts in Lalbagh, it has come a long way, no longer just a breakfast, but a celebration in the evening air.

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