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After 1975, Bangladesh saw economic liberalisation leading to the growth of an export-focused ready-made garment (RMG) industry that mainly employs women. With lower wages and little resistance, factory owners maintain a comparatively cheap and stable workforce. The working conditions for these women are mostly informal, leading to a precarious job environment. The growth of the RMG sector has been influenced by political and economic factors in Bangladesh. Changes in government policies, international buyer pressure, and worker protests have shaped the industry over time.
Recently, there have been significant policy changes in the RMG sector, including updates to minimum wage laws and stricter labour law enforcement following tragedies like the Rana Plaza collapse in 2013. Recent reforms in the RMG sector have been driven by international demands and supply chain regulations. After the Rana Plaza disaster, the Bangladesh government worked with international brands and labour groups to create safety accords. These initiatives aimed to improve factory safety and compliance with regulations. The Accord was followed by the establishment of the RMG Sustainability Council in 2020, which oversees safety measures.
The economic liberalisation of the 1980s coincided with global shifts towards decentralised production. This resulted in more informal jobs with lower wages and fewer benefits. The RMG industry emerged with support from the Bangladeshi government and international institutions. Bangladesh's competitive advantage attracted foreign investment, largely due to a young workforce and weak labour laws. However, this has also led to gender inequalities, with women facing exploitative practices and limited career advancement. About 90 percent of garment workers are women, often uneducated migrants from rural areas, making them vulnerable to exploitation.
Working conditions in Dhaka's garment factories are often poor. Many workers have no formal contracts, leaving work terms unclear and giving employers significant power. Women frequently work over eight hours a day without breaks, especially during peak shipment periods. Factories are often housed in unsuitable buildings due to high land costs. The 2013 Rana Plaza collapse, which killed over 1,000 workers, highlighted these unsafe conditions. Factory spaces are cramped, and access to restrooms is inadequate. Fire safety measures are often lacking, as seen in the 2012 Tazreen Fashion factory fire.
While workers are supposed to have an eight-hour shift six days a week, many work overtime until late at night to meet deadlines. In most cases, there are no formal contracts, leaving job terms ambiguous. Workers sometimes go an entire month without a day off, despite laws stating no one can work more than 10 consecutive days without a break. Breaks are often shorter than required, and most workers are paid at unskilled labourer rates, regardless of their skills or roles.
Gender and labour dynamics within the global economy are essential to understanding the challenges female RMG workers face. Globalisation has intensified gender inequality by embedding patriarchal structures in labour markets. In Bangladesh's RMG sector, this manifests as exploitative practices and limited economic opportunities for women.
There is also a strong connection between labour conditions and mental health, particularly concerning workplace stress. High job demands combined with low autonomy can lead to significant mental health issues. This is especially relevant for women in low- and middle-income countries, where precarious labour conditions and poverty are cyclical. The gendered nature of labour-related mental health disparities highlights the importance of understanding their broader implications.
Global economic pressures, particularly from international buyers, significantly impact labour conditions. The shift to low-wage labour in developing countries is well-documented. International buyers often drive down wages and labour standards, affecting worker well-being. In Bangladesh's garment sector, international buyer pressure is pronounced, as seen in comparisons between the effects of buyer power in Bangladesh and Vietnam. Understanding local labour conditions requires considering the global economic forces at play, including pressures from international buyers.
The work is physically demanding, requiring continuous use of machines. This leads to chronic pain and illness, and workers often lack the freedom to take breaks. They face pressure to work overtime to meet shipment deadlines, causing additional stress.
Workers feel alienated from their jobs. Many do not fully understand the production process and thus lack pride in their work. However, some coping mechanisms have emerged due to changes in government regulations, such as improved labour laws, sick leave, and maternity leave, which have contributed to reducing stress levels.
The workplace is not the only source of stress; living conditions also contribute. Workers struggle to find affordable housing near factories, sometimes resulting in long commutes. Limited income restricts transportation options, increasing stress. The government has raised the minimum wage to address labour concerns, but it remains insufficient to cover living expenses. Many workers live in overcrowded conditions. Social support plays a crucial role in coping. Family members often assist with childcare and household responsibilities, providing emotional support. The introduction of mobile financial services allows workers to send money home easily, improving their ability to support their families. Stress and coping mechanisms are shaped by systemic constraints, including poor labour conditions, social stigma, and economic pressures. These factors create a challenging environment for female RMG workers, leading to high levels of stress.
To enhance the well-being of female RMG workers, recommendations include promoting gender equality, reducing stigma, improving workplace culture, integrating mental health services, and ensuring compliance with labour laws. The following actions must be taken:
1. Enhancing Coping Mechanisms: Encourage equal participation of men in household responsibilities through incentives. Educational workshops can promote shared caregiving roles.
2. Removing Stigma: Address negative stereotypes about female RMG workers through community engagement and campaigns that highlight their contributions to the economy.
3. Improving the Workplace Environment: Create a collaborative work culture through peer mentoring and transparency in decision-making processes.
4. Integrating Mental Health Services: Provide accessible mental health support through mobile platforms and on-site counselling.
5. Strengthening Labour Laws: Collaborate with international organisations to enforce labour standards and promote ethical certifications for factories.
The interplay of gender, mental health, labour conditions, and social stigma reveals complex challenges for female RMG workers in Bangladesh. Addressing these issues requires holistic interventions to promote gender equality, mental health support, and transparent labour practices. These recommendations aim for both personal and systemic empowerment.
The writer is Research Fellow, Moulovibari Research and Partnership Hub (MoRPH), Tangail, Bangladesh